Sacred Route of Panchkoshi Varuni and Womanhood
Through the years, I have been drawn towards old and sacred pilgrimages, which dive into devotions, stories, memories and inner silence. Among the many Yatras, the Panchkoshi Varuni is lesser known and different. On March 27th, I witnessed this extraordinary journey in the charming town of Uttarkashi, nestled in the heart of Uttarakhand.
This pilgrimage is held annually on the Trayodashi of Chaitra month and is conducted as a parikrama around Varunavat Hill. It's a 15 km long hike with an elevation gain of roughly 1400m. The pilgrims start their journey from the confluence of Varuna and Bhagirathi and end at the confluence of Assi and Bhagirathi. It is believed that thirty-three crore deities would be pleased if one performed this yatra, similar to an Ashwamedh Yagna.
I mentioned above that this yatra felt different from the others I had completed, as the women seemed to be at the forefront of it. This contrasts with the other yatras or events, where women are generally in the background, carefully tailoring much of the groundwork. Just as the confluences of the rivers, the journey seemed to be the confluence of Shiva and Shakti, of motion and stillness, of masculine lore and feminine resilience.
After bathing in the confluence and collecting water from it, the circumambulation of Varunavat hill takes one through several temples situated along the villages: Renuka Devi in Basunga; Jagarnath temple, Astabhuja Jwala Devi in Sald; Dnyaneshwar Mahadev, Vyas Kund in Gyanja and finally reaching the highest point of the trail Shikhreshwar Mahadev Temple (2,450m). Several holy figures like Ved Vyas, Sage Parsurama and the Pandavas are said to have walked the trail, and the hill is believed to be the centre of knowledge and enlightenment. It is also believed that Shiva roamed through this hill and forests, and thus, several Shivlings are found along the way.
I believe the women filling up water from the confluence and offering it to every Shivling along the way is quite symbolic. The water they pour is the same that Shiva tamed through his locks after Bhagirath's plea for penance for his ancestors to ease Ganga's transition from heaven to earth. It's their way of showing gratitude for bringing their beloved Ganga to earth, the very embodiment of liberation. The journey is not just a walk through hills and temples but a story told through the footsteps of women, often barefoot, walking in clusters or solitude, carrying water, flowers, prayers, and sometimes, just silence.
At Shikhreshwar temple, the shivling is said to have been established by the Pandavas; she sees the mightly view of the Bandarpunch glacier and the peaks from where the river Yamuna originated. Several other mountain ranges, such as the Gangotri Range, are alsao visible. Standing on the temple's premises, she can feel the breeze from the mighty Himalayas. Then, she moves towards Vimleshwar Mahadev temple; the Shivling here is said to be self-manifested (Swayambhu). Some say the temple sits on a natural energy point (Shakti Sthal), and it's not uncommon to meet Sadhus here even today. Then, crossing a section of dense Deodar forest, one reaches Kandar Devta Temple in Sangrali village, the local deity said to be Uttarkashi's protector.
Initially done by the sages, this pilgrimage has become a journey for ordinary people, especially women. Many who spend their time indoors working rigorously and nourishing their families seem happy to spend a day outdoors doing an adventure. In many cultural rituals, women are asked to serve or sing, but in the Varuni Yatra, they walk. And walking is power. They claim space with their bodies, with their age-worn knee, their young laughter, and the rhythm of their feet on this ancient trail. This is womanhood not as a role but as a rite.
The yatra ends at Gangori ghat where she meets the river again, again at a confluence. Some wash their faces with the cold water, and some sit and let the sound sweep away tiredness. It's not just a confluence of the two rivers but a confluence of her renewal and liberation. At that moment, she is free, just like the untamed water of Bhagirathi.
